Shaumari Wildlife Reserve

Where the Arabian oryx came back from extinction

In 1972, the last wild Arabian oryx was shot in Oman. The species that had ranged across the Arabian Peninsula and Levant for millennia — appearing in ancient Egyptian art, Sumerian reliefs, and Arabic poetry — had been hunted to extinction in the wild within living memory.

Six years later, Jordan’s RSCN established Shaumari Wildlife Reserve with the explicit goal of reversing that extinction. The first nine oryx arrived in 1978 from the “World Herd” — a captive breeding programme maintained at Phoenix Zoo and other institutions that had been preserving the species since the early 1960s against exactly this possibility. The animals were released into a fenced enclosure in the Jordanian desert, fed, protected, and monitored.

Today the Shaumari herd numbers more than 200 animals. Animals from Shaumari have been used to establish the free-ranging populations that now exist in Oman’s Arabian Oryx Sanctuary (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), in Saudi Arabia’s Empty Quarter, and in reserves across the Emirates. The Arabian oryx went from extinction in the wild in 1972 to being classified as “vulnerable” (rather than “endangered”) on the IUCN Red List — the first time an animal has been downlisted after reaching “extinct in the wild” status.

This is one of the most significant conservation success stories in the history of wildlife management. Shaumari is where it started.

The wildlife

Arabian oryx (Oryx leucoryx)

The oryx is visually striking in a way that immediately explains why it inspired legend. Standing roughly 1 metre at the shoulder, its white coat is almost luminous in the desert light; its long, nearly straight horns — parallel from certain angles — may be the origin of the unicorn myth (side-on view of a single-horned animal). The animals are surprisingly well-camouflaged in the pale desert landscape despite their white coats, appearing and disappearing among the low scrub.

Oryx have physiological adaptations to desert survival that are remarkable: they can tolerate body temperatures of 46°C without apparent distress, they obtain most of their water requirements from vegetation, and they can locate rainfall from long distances by smell. In the reserve context, they are supplementary-fed during droughts.

Ostriches (Struthio camelus syriacus)

The Syrian ostrich, the subspecies native to the Levant, was also hunted to extinction in the region — the last Syrian ostrich is thought to have been killed in the 1940s. Shaumari maintains a population of African ostriches as representative of the genus; a captive breeding programme for the Syrian-related North African subspecies exists but reintroduction of the exact subspecies is complicated by genetic considerations.

The ostriches are the most immediately visible large animals in the reserve — their height (1.8-2.7 metres), speed (capable of 70 km/h in short bursts), and general behavioural expressiveness make them entertaining to watch even without specialist wildlife interest.

Persian onagers (Equus hemionus onager)

The onager — the Persian wild ass — is another animal that has largely disappeared from the wider region. Shaumari maintains a breeding population in a separate enclosure. Smaller than a horse but faster, onagers are notoriously difficult to domesticate; ancient Mesopotamians used them to pull war chariots before the horse was introduced. The Shaumari animals are cautious around vehicles but can usually be seen at a distance.

Gazelles

Both the Dorcas gazelle and the Arabian gazelle are present at Shaumari in semi-wild conditions within the reserve. Gazelles are the most agile animals in the reserve and often the hardest to see for extended periods — they cover ground quickly and are more skittish than the oryx.

The guided tour

There are no self-guided visits at Shaumari. All visits are conducted as guided vehicle tours in RSCN jeeps, typically seating 4-6 people per vehicle. The tour covers the main animal enclosures and open areas, lasting approximately 90 minutes.

Cost: approximately 25 JOD per person. The RSCN visitor centre at the entrance provides context on the conservation programme and the species present. Booking in advance through the RSCN website (rscn.org.jo) is advisable, particularly for groups and during weekends when Amman families are the primary visitors.

Amman: desert castles and Azraq Wetland Reserve day trip (combine with Shaumari)

Tours run at set times — typically morning and afternoon departures. Confirm the schedule when booking, as operating times vary by season.

Getting to Shaumari

Shaumari is 12 km south of Azraq on a paved road. From Amman, the total drive is approximately 110 km taking about 1h30. A rental car or private vehicle is required — there is no public transport to the reserve.

The standard visit combines Shaumari with Azraq: the desert castles loop from Amman (Qasr Amra, Qasr Kharana), then Azraq Castle and Wetland Reserve, then Shaumari before returning to Amman. This is a full day requiring an early start from Amman.

Private driver from Amman: Multiple private driver services cover the Azraq-Shaumari circuit as a full-day excursion (80-120 JOD depending on negotiation and group size). This is the most flexible option.

The RSCN and nature reserves in Jordan

The Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature manages Jordan’s network of protected areas, which include Dana Biosphere Reserve, Wadi Rum Protected Area, Mujib Biosphere Reserve, and Ajloun Forest Reserve in addition to Azraq and Shaumari. The RSCN model — using nature-based tourism to fund conservation — is well-regarded internationally and has been replicated in other countries.

Visiting RSCN sites directly funds conservation operations. The RSCN staff at Shaumari are knowledgeable about the animals and the breeding programme, and most speak sufficient English to answer questions from international visitors.

Photography at Shaumari

The oryx in desert light — white against golden sand, their long horns silhouetted — are among the more photogenic subjects in Jordan. Morning light is better than afternoon, which can be harsh and creates heat shimmer. A telephoto lens (200mm or longer) is recommended for the ostriches and gazelles, which are generally more distant than the oryx.

The visit is in a moving vehicle, so image stabilization is an advantage. Ask the guide to stop for extended periods when animals are close and well-positioned.

Combining Shaumari with other eastern Jordan sites

A productive eastern Jordan itinerary from Amman:

One day: Azraq Castle (1 hour) + Azraq Wetland Reserve (1.5 hours) + Shaumari (2.5 hours including drive). Total: 7-8 hours including Amman driving.

Extended version with desert castles: Start earlier — Qasr al-Hallabat (45 min), Qasr Amra (1 hour), Qasr Kharana (45 min), Azraq (2 hours), Shaumari (2 hours). This is a 10-11 hour day. Possible in summer only if you start by 6:00 am; comfortable in spring and autumn.

See our Azraq guide and desert castles guide for the full circuit. Our Amman guide covers how to base yourself for the day. For a nature-focused Jordan trip, our Dana Biosphere Reserve guide and Wadi Mujib guide cover Jordan’s other major RSCN reserves. For families interested in combining wildlife with cultural sites, see the Jerash guide for the northern circuit or the day trips from Amman guide for full-day options from the capital. The Umm al-Jimal guide covers the black basalt Byzantine city 30 km west of Azraq, a natural extension for travellers already in the eastern desert.

Practical information

• Book in advance through rscn.org.jo — do not show up without a reservation (tours may be full or unavailable)
• Bring water and snacks; there is a small café at the visitor centre but not full catering
• Wear neutral-coloured clothing; bright colours can disturb some animals
• The reserve terrain is flat and sandy — standard vehicles access the visitor centre, reserve vehicles are used for tours
• Sunscreen and a hat are essential in the exposed desert environment
• The reserve is not accessible in the same way as a Western safari park — the animals are not guaranteed to be close to the vehicle on every visit

Conservation context

Shaumari exists in a country that is not wealthy and faces significant water, land, and resource pressures. The RSCN’s ability to maintain these conservation programmes depends partly on international support and partly on tourism revenue. Visiting and paying the entry fee is a direct contribution to the preservation of these populations.

The Arabian oryx story is encouraging precisely because it demonstrates that even extinction from the wild can be reversed when there is sufficient will, international cooperation, and management quality. Shaumari is a working proof of concept — one of the few places in the world where you can see an animal that was genuinely gone from the wild and is now, improbably, back.

FAQ

How many Arabian oryx are at Shaumari?

The herd exceeds 200 animals. Numbers fluctuate with births and transfers to other programmes.

Can I see the oryx guaranteed?

The reserve is managed and the animals are within a defined area, so sightings are reliable — not guaranteed from close range but the animals are present and visible on almost every tour.

Is Shaumari suitable for children?

Yes. The animals are large and charismatic enough to engage children, and the guided vehicle format means no difficult walking. Children generally find the ostriches and oryx more compelling than archaeological sites.

What is the RSCN Azraq Lodge?

A small eco-lodge managed by the RSCN on the edge of the Azraq Wetland Reserve, 12 km from Shaumari. It offers simple accommodation with meals and is the recommended overnight option for birdwatchers and travellers wanting to combine both reserves. Book through rscn.org.jo.

Are there guides at Shaumari who speak English?

RSCN guides at Shaumari generally speak sufficient English for the guided tour. For specialist birdwatching or in-depth conservation discussions, advance notice helps ensure you get a guide with appropriate expertise.