Jordan is one of the most rewarding self-drive destinations in the Middle East. The country is compact (about the size of Portugal), the roads are good, signage is in English and Arabic, petrol is cheap, and the distances between major sites are manageable. A 10-day road trip covers the full circuit: the ancient north, the Dead Sea shore, the King’s Highway south, Petra, Wadi Rum, and Aqaba. Total distance: approximately 1,500 km.
Why self-drive in Jordan
The three arguments for self-driving rather than tours or public transport:
Flexibility on timing. The golden hour at Petra’s Treasury is at 9–10am. The Dead Sea sunrise requires being there at 6am. Wadi Rum at sunset requires staying until the last light. A private car allows you to be at each site at the optimal moment. Organised tours cannot do this.
Access to off-the-map sites. Mukawir (Herod’s fortress), Umm al-Jimal, the Desert Castles east of Amman, Wadi Faynan — sites that public transport does not reach and that organised tours rarely include. A car makes them all accessible.
Cost efficiency for families or groups. Car hire at 70–90 JOD/day divided by 4 passengers is cheaper than 4 bus tickets plus taxi supplements. The break-even point vs organised tours is roughly 2 people.
Practical driving notes
Petrol: Widely available. Stations in Amman, Madaba, Aqaba, and along the King’s and Desert Highways. The stretch from Dana to Wadi Musa on the King’s Highway has limited stations — fill up in Tafilah. Diesel and 95 octane petrol standard. Costs approximately 0.90 JOD/litre (significantly cheaper than Europe).
Speed limits: 100–110 km/h on highways, 60–80 km/h on open roads, 50 km/h in towns. Speed cameras exist but are not ubiquitous. Speed bumps (unmarked, sharp) are common in villages — slow down whenever approaching a settlement.
Parking: Free and easy at most archaeological sites. Petra visitor centre has a large free car park. Wadi Rum Village has a designated car park at the visitor centre. Amman parking is metered in central areas.
Road quality: Excellent on the Desert Highway (4-lane divided). Good on the King’s Highway (2-lane winding, some rough patches north of Madaba and between Karak and Tafilah). The road into Wadi Rum Village (from the Desert Highway turn-off) is paved. Inside Wadi Rum Protected Area, all driving requires a Bedouin guide — you cannot drive independently inside the reserve.
Car type: A standard sedan handles all paved roads on this itinerary. A 4×4 is not required unless you plan significant off-road driving. If hiring in Amman and returning to Amman, the full circuit is doable in a mid-size sedan. If doing any unpaved roads in the desert east (optional Desert Castles detour), a 4×4 is more comfortable.
Car rental: Avis and Hertz operate from Queen Alia Airport (most reliable, standardised pricing). Approximate cost for a mid-size 4×4: 70–90 JOD/day including basic insurance. Budget for excess damage waiver (CDW) at approximately 15–20 JOD/day extra — worthwhile for peace of mind. Avoid the smallest local agencies without track records.
International driving licence: Carry it. Some agencies accept your home country licence alone; Jordan traffic police technically require the international version for foreign drivers. Obtain one from your automobile association at home (usually USD 20, valid 1 year).
Day-by-day itinerary
Day 1–2: Amman
Day 1: Arrival
Collect your rental car at Queen Alia Airport (desks in arrivals hall). Drive to your Amman hotel — approximately 35 minutes on the highway. Downtown Amman (East side) is the most interesting base; avoid the far western suburbs for exploration purposes.
Use day 1 lightly: settle in, walk the downtown area, visit Hashem restaurant (the legendary falafel and hummus institution on Al-Hashemi Street), explore Rainbow Street in the evening.
Day 2: Amman city sites
The Amman Citadel sits on the highest hill in the city — drive to the car park (yes, you can drive there) and walk the site. The Temple of Hercules columns, the Umayyad Palace, and the Archaeological Museum are all on the same hilltop. Allow 2 hours.
Below the Citadel: the Roman Theatre (2nd century, 6,000 seats, still used for performances). 30 minutes.
Afternoon optional: Rainbow Street restaurants, the Duke’s Diwan (Ottoman-era building, free, historical photos), the old souk districts (Al-Balad).
Drive note: Amman is a city of 2+ million people spread across multiple hills. Navigation inside the city is confusing. Use Google Maps or Waze; both work well in Jordan. Parking near the Citadel is available on the access road.
Day 3: Jerash, Ajloun, and Umm Qais (north loop, day trip)
The northern loop is one of the most rewarding day drives in Jordan and is best done as a single long day from Amman.
Jerash (morning, 50 km from Amman): Drive north on the expressway. Jerash is signposted. The Roman city of Gerasa is Jordan’s most visited archaeological site after Petra — and arguably the most complete Roman provincial city in the world. Plan at least 3 hours. Do not rush the Oval Plaza and cardo maximus colonnade; few ancient streetscapes survive this intact.
Ajloun (afternoon, 20 km west of Jerash): Ajloun Castle (Qalaat Ar-Rabad) is a 12th-century Arab-Islamic fortress built by Saladin’s general to defend against the Crusaders. The fortress sits on a forested hill with outstanding views over the Jordan Valley — on clear days you can see the hills of Palestine. Allow 1.5 hours. The Ajloun Forest Reserve surrounding the castle is managed by RSCN and has walking trails (1–3 hours) through Mediterranean forest — unusual for Jordan and genuinely pleasant.
Umm Qais (late afternoon, 50 km northwest of Jerash): Umm Qais (ancient Gadara) is one of the Decapolis cities, perched on a dramatic ridge above the Sea of Galilee, the Yarmouk River valley, and the Golan Heights. The ruins include a remarkable black basalt theatre, a colonnaded street, and an Ottoman village built within the ancient walls. The view from the terrace of the Umm Qais Museum restaurant (now closed, but the terrace remains accessible) is one of the finest in Jordan. Allow 1.5–2 hours.
Return to Amman via the expressway (about 1.5 hours from Umm Qais).
Total driving day 3: approximately 200 km.
Day 4: Dead Sea Highway via Bethany
Today’s drive descends from Amman’s 800m plateau to the Dead Sea — the lowest point on Earth, 430m below sea level. The descent takes about 1 hour but the visual transition is dramatic.
Bethany Beyond the Jordan: Drive 50 km southwest from Amman toward the Dead Sea, then north slightly to the Bethany Baptism Site. This UNESCO World Heritage Site (Jesus’ baptism, confirmed by the Vatican and documented archaeologically) requires advance booking — either via the official site (baptismsite.com) or via your hotel. Allow 2–2.5 hours with the guided tour.
Dead Sea floating: Drive south along the Dead Sea Highway to one of the resort hotel beaches. Independent travellers without a hotel booking pay a day pass for beach and pool access — approximately 22–30 JOD at most resorts, which includes a towel and mud access. The experience of floating effortlessly in 33% salinity water is genuinely strange and worth doing at least once. The mineral-rich mud applied from the shoreline is part of the ritual.
Sleep at a Dead Sea resort (Kempinski Ishtar, Movenpick Dead Sea, or Holiday Inn for mid-range) or continue south to a guesthouse in Madaba (40 km, slightly higher altitude, cooler nights).
Total driving day 4: approximately 130 km.
Day 5: Wadi Mujib Siq Trail
Seasonal note: The Wadi Mujib Siq Trail is open April–October only. Outside this period, substitute a morning hike on the Mujib Ibex Trail (year-round) or drive directly to Madaba.
The Mujib Biosphere Reserve entrance is on the Dead Sea Highway, approximately 90 km south of Amman. The Siq Trail involves wading through the canyon — bring waterproof sandals or old trainers (you will get wet to the waist), a waterproof bag for valuables, and accept that your lower half will be wet for 3–4 hours. The RSCN provides life vests.
After the trail: lunch at the visitor centre café, then drive south to Karak (1.5–2 hours via the Dead Sea Highway, turning east at the Karak turn-off).
From Amman: Wadi Mujib Siq Trail private hiking tourOvernight in Karak or continue to Tafilah (90 minutes south of Karak).
Total driving day 5: approximately 170 km.
Day 6: Karak via Dead Sea Highway and Tafilah
Karak Castle (morning): The Crusader fortress of 1142 is Karak’s main attraction — a massive construction on a promontory commanding the King’s Highway. The museum inside contextualises the remarkable history of a fortification that changed hands between Crusaders, Ayyubids, and Mamelukes over three centuries. Allow 1.5–2 hours.
King’s Highway south: From Karak, the King’s Highway descends through dramatic canyon scenery toward Tafilah. This is the most visually rewarding driving section of the entire route — the road winds along the edge of the Wadi Dana escarpment with views into depths of 1,000m.
Tafilah: A small town at the junction of routes south toward Dana and Petra. Fill up with petrol here (limited stations south). Tafilah itself has no major tourist site, but the Wadi Dana Biosphere Reserve is 15 km west — worth a brief detour to see the canyon from the rim viewpoint.
Drive to Wadi Musa/Petra area (2 hours from Tafilah via Shobak).
Shobak Castle (optional late afternoon stop): A smaller, less visited Crusader castle 25 km north of Wadi Musa. Less impressive than Karak but quieter and more atmospheric. The castle is dramatically sited above a valley; the tunnels inside are worth exploring. Allow 45 minutes.
Arrive Wadi Musa for the night.
Total driving day 6: approximately 180 km.
Day 7–8: Petra
Two days at Petra is the recommended minimum. See the Petra complete guide for comprehensive information.
Day 7 priorities:
- Early start (gates open at 6am; aim to be at the Treasury entrance by 8am before tour groups)
- The Siq (take your time — 1.2 km of slot canyon)
- The Treasury, the Royal Tombs, the Colonnaded Street
- Afternoon: the Monastery (Ad-Deir) — 850 steps, 2–3 hours return, worth every step
- Petra by Night if available (Monday, Wednesday, Thursday; 17 JOD)
Day 8 priorities:
- High Place of Sacrifice trail (morning, 2 hours, outstanding panoramic views)
- Little Petra (Siq al-Barid) — 9 km north of Wadi Musa, separate entrance, smaller Nabataean complex with painted dining room ceiling — excellent and often empty
- Byzantine Church mosaics inside the main site
- Treasury at golden hour (2–3 hours before closing, good angle, afternoon sun)
Overnight in Wadi Musa both nights. Parking is free at the Petra visitor centre; your car is safe.
Day 9: Wadi Rum overnight
Drive from Wadi Musa to Wadi Rum Village — 1h45. The road climbs briefly through Sharah mountains before descending to the plain. The approach to Wadi Rum is one of the great landscape drives in Jordan: the granite massifs and sandstone inselbergs rise from the flat desert floor, the colour shifting from buff to red to purple as the angle of light changes.
Park your car at the visitor centre car park (free, secured). All driving inside the protected area requires a Bedouin guide — this is enforced, not optional. Hire a jeep tour (2-hour, half-day, or full-day options available at the visitor centre desk) and then settle into your camp for the night.
Wadi Rum camp options: Budget to mid-range Bedouin family camps charge 30–80 JOD per person including dinner and breakfast. Luxury glamping operations (Wadi Rum Night Luxury Camp, Memories Aicha Luxury Camp) charge 150–300 JOD. For an honest desert experience, the mid-tier family camps are better than the luxury alternatives — closer to authentic Bedouin culture, less like an upscale hotel that happens to be in the desert.
From Wadi Rum: jeep tour with overnight desert campingDay 10: Aqaba and return via Desert Highway
Aqaba (morning): Drive from Wadi Rum to Aqaba — 1 hour. Aqaba is Jordan’s only port, a free-trade zone, and a resort city at the head of the Gulf of Aqaba. The snorkelling from shore is outstanding — the reef begins close to the beach and the visibility is 20–30m. Rent equipment from dive shops along the corniche (10–15 JOD).
If you have an early afternoon flight from Aqaba Airport (AQJ), skip the snorkelling and drive directly. If your flight home is from Queen Alia (Amman), you have two choices:
- Desert Highway return: 4 hours, direct, arrives Amman by early afternoon
- Domestic flight: Royal Jordanian operates Aqaba–Amman (1 hour, from approximately 40–80 JOD each way, book in advance)
Return the rental car at Queen Alia Airport desks (open 24 hours).
Aqaba: Red Sea snorkeling boat trip with buffet lunchTotal driving day 10: approximately 350 km (Wadi Rum to Amman via Desert Highway).
Total driving distances
| Leg | Distance | Drive time |
|---|---|---|
| Amman → Jerash → Ajloun → Umm Qais → Amman | ~200 km | ~4.5h driving |
| Amman → Bethany → Dead Sea | ~80 km | ~1.5h |
| Dead Sea → Wadi Mujib → Karak | ~120 km | ~2h |
| Karak → Tafilah → Shobak → Wadi Musa | ~160 km | ~2.5h |
| Wadi Musa → Wadi Rum | ~90 km | ~1h45 |
| Wadi Rum → Aqaba | ~65 km | ~1h |
| Aqaba → Amman (Desert Highway) | ~330 km | ~3.5–4h |
| Total circuit | ~1,450–1,550 km | — |
Hotels
Amman (2 nights): Hayat Amman Hotel or Nomads Hotel (mid-range, 50–90 JOD). Budget: Jordan Tower Hostel (15–20 JOD, private rooms available).
Dead Sea (1 night): Holiday Inn Dead Sea or Movenpick Dead Sea (120–200 JOD). Budget: guesthouses in Sweimeh from 40–60 JOD. Staying at a resort includes beach access.
Karak/Tafilah (1 night): Guesthouses only. Karak Rest House (basic, 30–50 JOD); accommodation in Tafilah is very limited.
Wadi Musa/Petra (2 nights): Valentine Inn (budget, 25–35 JOD), Rocky Mountain Hotel (mid-range, 60–90 JOD), Movenpick Resort Petra (luxury, 200+ JOD).
Wadi Rum camp (1 night): Included in the camp booking (30–300 JOD depending on level).
Aqaba (0 nights on this schedule — can add 1 night): Aqaba Gulf Hotel (mid-range, 80–120 JOD); Kempinski Aqaba or InterContinental for luxury.
Budget
| Item | Estimate |
|---|---|
| Flights (international return) | USD 400–800 |
| Car rental (10 days, 4×4 mid-size) | USD 700–1,000 |
| Accommodation (10 nights, mixed) | USD 500–900 |
| Petrol (1,500 km at 0.90 JOD/litre) | ~USD 140 |
| Site entries (Jordan Pass + others) | USD 130–180 |
| Food (10 days, mid-range) | USD 200–350 |
| Wadi Rum jeep + camp | USD 80–250 |
| Total per person (2 sharing) | USD 1,075–1,810 |
The Jordan Pass (approximately USD 100–115) includes the visa and Petra entry — strongly recommended for 10-day visits.
Variations
Shorter route (7 days)
Drop the north loop (Jerash/Ajloun/Umm Qais) and start directly at the Dead Sea. This saves 2 days but loses the best Roman site in Jordan. Alternatively: do Jerash as a half-day on day 1 (50 km from airport, en route to the Dead Sea if you route via the north).
Add the Desert Castles (east loop, +1 day)
From Amman, a full-day loop east takes in Qasr Amra (UNESCO, extraordinary 8th-century Umayyad frescoes), Qasr Kharana (perfectly preserved 8th-century castle), and Qasr al-Hallabat (Umayyad palace with mosaics). The road is good tarmac. This adds a completely different historical dimension — Umayyad caliphate rather than Roman/Nabataean. Best done as day 2 before the south route.
Extend to 12 days
Add Dana Biosphere Reserve (2 nights): detour from the King’s Highway before Petra, hiking the Dana canyon, staying at Dana Guesthouse or Feynan Ecolodge. This is the most beautiful addition to the self-drive route.
FAQ
Do I need a 4×4 for this itinerary?
No. All roads described are paved tarmac. A standard sedan handles this route without difficulty. A 4×4 adds comfort on the minor detour road to Feynan/Wadi Faynan and is better for the Dana access road in rain.
Is driving in Amman difficult?
Honestly: yes. Traffic is heavy, lane discipline is loose, and some road markings are unclear. Outside of Amman, driving is easy. Strategies: use Google Maps navigation (accurate in Jordan), avoid Amman peak hours (7:30–9am and 4–7pm), consider taking a taxi for the Citadel visit rather than driving in the old city.
Are there tolls?
Yes, on the Amman expressways (small amounts, 0.5–1 JOD, coin payment at booths). No tolls on the King’s Highway or Desert Highway.
Can I take the rental car into Israel or Egypt?
Most Jordanian rental companies prohibit cross-border use. Check before signing. If you want to do a Jordan-Israel combo, return the Jordan car and use public transport/taxis across the border, then hire locally in Israel (or use a company that operates on both sides, which exist).
What is the driving etiquette in Jordan?
Flashing headlights from behind means overtake now (not what it means in many European countries). Horn use is frequent and not aggressive — it often just means “I’m here.” Roundabouts give priority to entering traffic in some places (the opposite of UK rules). Speed bumps are everywhere in towns and often unmarked — slow down significantly in villages.
What fuel does my rental car take?
Confirm at the rental desk. Most standard cars take 95 octane petrol (marked “Mumtaz” or “Super” in Arabic at petrol stations). Diesel vehicles are also available. Do not put the wrong fuel in — petrol stations staff will help if you are unsure.