Why climbers come to Wadi Rum
The sandstone massifs of Wadi Rum have been climbed since the 1980s, when British mountaineer Tony Howard first documented the routes in his guidebook Treks and Climbs in Wadi Rum, Jordan — still the most comprehensive reference available. Howard identified over 200 routes on the major formations, ranging from the approachable scrambles used by Bedouin to cross the plateau to multi-pitch technical walls that require serious trad climbing experience.
What makes Wadi Rum different from other sandstone destinations — the American Southwest, Fontainebleau — is the scale. The main climbing walls are not crags. They are 300–800 metre massifs. Jebel Rum, the highest point in the reserve at 1 754 metres, has full alpine-scale multi-day routes on its north face. Most visitors will never touch those routes. But they exist, and they put the beginner routes in context: you’re climbing on the lower flanks of serious mountains.
The sandstone itself requires adjustment if you’re used to limestone or granite. It’s grainy and textured — good friction — but it can crumble unexpectedly on older, less-trafficked routes. Trust your Bedouin guide’s assessment of a hold more than your own instincts until you’ve spent a day learning the rock.
Best season for climbing
Optimal: September through May
Avoid: June, July, August (40–45°C midday; routes face west and bake from noon)
Spring (March–May) is the classic season: mild temperatures, no rain, long daylight hours and wildflowers on the plateau edges. The October–November window is equally good and less crowded than spring. December through February is cold at altitude — the upper routes can be icy in January — but the lower walls are fine with a warm layer for belaying.
Start time: Begin climbing by 7–8 AM and plan to be off the exposed rock by noon in summer. In shoulder season you can climb until 4 PM before the light goes flat.
Grades and what they mean in Wadi Rum
The standard reference uses the American Yosemite Decimal System (5.x), which Tony Howard’s guidebook follows:
| Grade | What it means in Wadi Rum |
|---|---|
| 5.4–5.6 | Beginner routes; some scrambling experience needed |
| 5.7–5.9 | Intermediate; comfortable leading on granite or limestone |
| 5.10–5.11 | Advanced; technique matters, sandstone footwork critical |
| 5.12–5.13c | Expert; committed climbers only |
The route grades are sometimes softer than their American equivalents — Wadi Rum sandstone rewards friction and balance over pure power, which can make routes feel easier on the feet but harder on technique.
Beginner routes in Wadi Rum
Pillar of Wisdom (5.4)
One of the most-climbed beginner routes in the reserve, with good reason. The Pillar is a detached sandstone column with a straightforward crack system that gives a logical sequence of moves from base to top. A Bedouin guide can lead this route with a complete beginner following, and the top-out view across the valley is satisfying.
Access: Reached by jeep from the Visitor Centre, approximately 30 minutes into the reserve.
Length: 2 pitches, approximately 50 metres
Descent: Walk-off on the back side
Hammad’s Route
Named after Hammad, one of the original Bedouin guides who developed early climbing routes in the 1980s with Tony Howard. A moderate multi-move route that introduces climbers to the characteristic Wadi Rum crack and face combination. Suitable for anyone who has climbed indoors at an intermediate level.
Access: Near the main Wadi Rum village, short approach on foot
Length: 1–2 pitches
Descent: Rappel or walk-off depending on variant
The Crack (Jebel Rum lower routes)
A generic name used for several accessible crack climbs on the lower flanks of Jebel Rum. Some require nothing more than jamming technique in a wide crack — a skill that can be learned in 30 minutes with a guide demonstrating the foot placements.
Intermediate and advanced routes
Jebel Rum North Summit (5.10–5.11, multi-pitch)
The classic moderate objective. A 700-metre route on the north face of Jebel Rum with varied terrain — cracks, face climbing, a narrow ridge section near the top. Two to three days with a local guide. Requires competence on multi-pitch trad routes.
Burdah Rock Bridge route (5.9–5.10)
The natural arch of Burdah is visible from below and the approach scramble is done by most jeep-tour visitors. The actual climbing route to the arch top is more committing and requires a rope. Outstanding position above the valley.
Jebel Khazali routes (various grades)
The Khazali massif has a concentration of well-protected routes at mid grades. The approach passes the famous Khazali Canyon inscriptions — combining archaeology and climbing in a single day.
Operators: who to climb with
Wadi Rum Mountain Guides
The primary association of licensed local guides working on technical climbing routes. Most of the Bedouin guides working in Wadi Rum today learned their trade through the network that Tony Howard and local guide Sabbah Eid built from the 1980s onwards. The current generation of guides has trained internationally and returns to Wadi Rum with certification and local knowledge.
Booking: Via their local contact at the Visitor Centre or by pre-arranging through email (contact details at the reserve). Rates vary by route difficulty and group size — expect 50–100 JOD per day for a guide on beginner routes, more for technical multi-pitch.
Bedouin Roads
A Wadi Rum-based operator offering multi-day climbing and hiking packages that combine technical routes with camp stays. Their guides are English-speaking Bedouin with specific climbing training. Good option for intermediate climbers who want to structure a 2–3 day climbing trip.
From Wadi Rum: 2-day hiking adventure and jeep tourWhat to bring
Technical gear (bring your own or hire from guides):
- Climbing harness
- Belay device and screwgate carabiner
- Helmet (essential — sandstone fragments fall)
- Rock shoes (hire possible through operators)
- 60m dry rope for most routes; 70m for longer multi-pitch
Not technical but essential:
- At least 2 litres of water per person per half-day (there is no water on the rock)
- Sun protection: SPF 50+, sunglasses, hat
- Approach shoes for the walk in
- Sandstone dries hands fast — chalk is useful but not always available locally; bring your own
Leave at camp:
- Heavy day packs — the rock is hot enough in summer that a full pack on your back is uncomfortable
- Valuables — there is no theft problem in Wadi Rum, but leave unnecessary items at the camp
Climbing and the jeep tour combination
Most climbers combine a half-day technical session with a jeep tour in the afternoon. The camps are generally happy to accommodate this structure. A typical plan:
- 6:30 AM: Drive from camp to climbing area
- 7 AM–12 PM: Climbing session (2–3 routes depending on grade)
- 12:30 PM: Return to camp for lunch
- 2 PM: Half-day jeep tour to the major formations
- Sunset: Camp dinner
This covers both the climbing objective and the landscape context in a single long day.
The Bedouin climbing tradition
Long before Tony Howard documented the routes, Bedouin of the Huweitat and Zalabia tribes were crossing the Wadi Rum massifs. The routes they used — often vertical cracks and friction slabs that a trained climber would grade 5.8–5.10 — were traveled for practical reasons: accessing seasonal water sources on the plateau tops, tracking ibex, or simply crossing between valleys without the long way around.
Many of the easiest routes in the Tony Howard guidebook are documented Bedouin crossing lines. When a Bedouin guide takes you up a “beginner route” in Wadi Rum, they may be showing you the exact path their grandfather used to cross to the next water source. This context — climbing as practical geography rather than sport — gives the experience a different quality than a climbing gym or even a European crag.
The most knowledgeable current generation of Bedouin guides grew up climbing these routes before they were graded. Some, like the guides from the Alzalabia and Alszwalhah families who trained with international climbers in the 1990s and 2000s, now have international certification. Their combination of traditional route knowledge and modern safety standards is what makes Wadi Rum climbing worth doing with a local rather than independently.
Multi-pitch and summit routes: what experienced climbers come for
Beyond the beginner routes, Wadi Rum offers some of the most serious multi-pitch climbing in the Middle East. These routes require commitment, proper gear, and significant prior experience. They are not for first-time outdoor climbers.
The Normal Route on Jebel Rum (5.7–5.9, Grade III)
The classic moderate objective in Wadi Rum. The route climbs the north face of Jebel Rum (1 754 m) via a series of cracks, ledges, and face sections. At 700+ metres of climbing, it takes a full day with an early start. The summit gives a 360-degree view across the reserve and into Saudi Arabia to the east.
The descent is a long scramble and requires good route-finding. A guide who knows the descent is strongly recommended — getting lost on the descent of Jebel Rum as dark falls is a realistic risk for parties without local knowledge.
Sabbah’s Route (5.10, multi-pitch)
Named for Sabbah Eid, one of the original Bedouin climbing guides who helped develop Wadi Rum as a climbing destination. A sustained 5.10 route on the eastern face of Jebel Rum with excellent crack climbing throughout. Requires confident trad leading.
The Beauty (5.11b, multi-pitch)
One of the harder established routes, first climbed by international teams in the 1990s. A test piece for technical sandstone climbers visiting the reserve.
Planning a climbing trip: logistics
Length of trip: Two days is the minimum for a meaningful climbing experience. Three to four days allows for acclimatisation to the sandstone, two or three route objectives, and time to absorb the desert setting. A full week is not excessive for serious climbers who want to attempt multi-pitch summit routes.
Accommodation: Overnight camps at or near the Visitor Centre zone work for most climbers. If you’re climbing in the deep reserve (Jebel Rum north face, the far western massifs), ask your guide about camping on the plateau — some operators arrange wild camp setups for multi-day objectives.
Water: Carry 3 litres minimum per person per climbing day. There is no water on the rock. Your guide should have water in the jeep at the approach point, but do not rely on this — carry everything you need on your person.
Insurance: Standard travel insurance rarely covers technical climbing. Specialist climbing insurance (British Mountaineering Council, UIAA, or local equivalent) is strongly recommended for any route above 5.7 or multi-pitch commitment.
Practical information
Reserve entry: 5 JOD per person, paid at Visitor Centre gate
Guide requirement: Technical climbing in Wadi Rum is possible without a guide, but local guides are strongly recommended — they know descent routes, rock conditions, and can manage emergencies in terrain with no phone signal
Accommodation: Overnight camps are the standard — see the overnight camps guide for the full breakdown
Nearest gear shop: There is no climbing gear shop in Wadi Rum. Bring your own or arrange hire through your guide in advance. Aqaba has a basic sports shop but limited climbing-specific stock
Emergency services: Wadi Rum has a ranger station at the Visitor Centre. International rescue-level mountain rescue does not exist in the reserve — a guide with radio contact to the station is your safety net
Seasonal considerations in detail
September–October (shoulder): The ideal start to the climbing season. The summer heat has broken but the rock is still warm in the mornings. Days are long, evenings cool. The sandstone is at its best friction — not too hot to touch, not cold enough to reduce grip. The reserve is less crowded than spring.
November–December: Good climbing weather but getting cold in the evenings. The upper routes on Jebel Rum can be icy on north-facing sections by December. For lower-altitude routes and single-day objectives, November is excellent.
January–February: Cold. Night temperatures below 0°C are common. Serious climbers still come in January for the quieter desert and crisp air, but commit to bringing full cold-weather climbing layers. The rock is firm and friction is good when not icy.
March–May: The peak climbing season. Days warm (20–28°C), nights cool (8–15°C), long light hours, excellent rock conditions. This is also peak tourist season generally — the reserve is busier and camps book out.
June–August: Not recommended for technical climbing. Rock surface temperatures above 40°C make holding rock painful and metal protection gear too hot to handle bare-handed. If you’re in Wadi Rum in August for other reasons, the shaded canyon sections can be explored on foot.
The guidebook: Tony Howard’s legacy
Tony Howard’s Treks and Climbs in Wadi Rum, Jordan (Cicerone Press, multiple editions) remains the definitive English-language climbing guide to the reserve. Howard first visited Wadi Rum in 1965 and has returned repeatedly to document new routes. The guidebook includes:
- Detailed route descriptions with grade, length, and approach information
- Topos (schematic diagrams showing the line on the rock face)
- Historical and cultural context for each major massif
- Descent route descriptions (often more important than the ascent)
- Information on the Bedouin guides who have shaped the climbing history
The most recent edition covers routes discovered in the 1990s through 2010s by international climbing teams and local Bedouin guides working together. The book is available through Cicerone Press and through climbing gear shops in the UK and Europe. Bringing it to Wadi Rum is worthwhile — not as a substitute for a guide, but as a reference that puts each route in context.
FAQ
Do I need prior climbing experience for Wadi Rum?
For beginner routes with a Bedouin guide, basic physical fitness and a tolerance for heights are the main requirements. Climbing experience helps but the guide can teach the fundamentals on the rock. For any technical route above 5.7, prior outdoor climbing experience is strongly recommended.
Can I bring my own rope and gear?
Yes. Bringing your own gear is normal for experienced climbers. Confirm with your guide what additional equipment they bring (usually additional cams, nuts, and ropes for the harder routes).
Is sandstone climbing harder than limestone?
Different rather than harder. Sandstone rewards balance and friction technique over brute force. If you’re used to powerful overhang routes on limestone, expect an adjustment. If you climb slabs, Wadi Rum sandstone will feel intuitive quickly.
How do I book a climbing guide without arriving in Wadi Rum?
The most reliable method is to contact operators before your trip — Wadi Rum Mountain Guides and Bedouin Roads both respond to email. Alternatively, arrange through a Jordan-based tour operator in Amman who can confirm the guide and climbing objectives in advance.
Are there fixed anchors on Wadi Rum routes?
Some popular routes have fixed anchors (bolts) on belays. Many do not. Trad protection — placed and removed by the lead climber — is standard for most of the established routes. Check the current guidebook for each specific route before committing.