King's Highway corridor

The King’s Highway: one of the world’s oldest roads

The route now marked on maps as Highway 35 and Highway 60 follows, approximately, one of the most ancient trade and military arteries in the world. The biblical “King’s Highway” — mentioned in Numbers 20 as the route Moses requested permission to use from the King of Edom — connected Egypt with Mesopotamia along the high plateau east of the Dead Sea. Caravans carrying spices, copper, and grain moved along it for millennia. Nabataean traders, Roman legions, Byzantine pilgrims, and Crusader garrisons all used this same basic line across the landscape.

Today, it is a two-lane paved road winding through some of Jordan’s most dramatic highland terrain — and it rewards travellers willing to take the slower route with a concentration of history, geology, and spectacle that the parallel Desert Highway cannot begin to match.

The route: stop by stop

Starting point — Madaba (~30 km south of Amman): The first major stop, and one worth spending an hour or two. Madaba is famous for its 6th-century Byzantine mosaic map of the Holy Land, displayed in the Church of Saint George. The map is the oldest surviving cartographic representation of Jerusalem and the surrounding region — remarkable in both scale and detail. Mosaic workshops in the town continue the tradition commercially.

Mount Nebo (~10 km north-west of Madaba, slight detour): From the summit of Mount Nebo, Moses is said to have seen the Promised Land before his death. The view west from the plateau edge encompasses the Jordan Valley, the Dead Sea, the Judean Hills, and on clear days the distant outline of Jerusalem. The Byzantine church complex here contains some of the finest preserved mosaic floors in Jordan. See the Mount Nebo guide.

The Wadi Mujib gorge: Driving south from Madaba on the King’s Highway, the road plunges dramatically into the Wadi Mujib canyon — a geological gash 1 km deep carved by the Mujib River on its way to the Dead Sea. The bridge at the bottom is one of Jordan’s great scenic moments: you cross a gorge that puts the Grand Canyon in perspective, and the views from the rim on both sides are extraordinary. This is not a hiking stop (the Siq Trail entrance is further east near the Dead Sea), but the road itself provides one of Jordan’s finest visual experiences. Stop safely at the viewpoints marked near the top of the descent and ascent.

Karak (~120 km south of Madaba): The crusader castle of Karak dominates the town from its basalt hill. Built in the 1140s, it was one of the most powerful fortifications in the Crusader kingdom of Oultrejordain — the site of Reynald of Châtillon’s notorious provocations against Saladin’s caravans, which contributed directly to the battle of Hattin in 1187. The castle was besieged four times and finally fell in 1188. A town-centre museum and the castle itself tell the story well. Allow 1.5–2 hours.

Tafilah (~50 km south of Karak): A quiet agricultural town on the plateau, notable as the site of a significant battle in the Arab Revolt (1918). The area has fine views east toward the Wadi Araba and is worth a brief stop for the landscape.

Shobak (~50 km south of Tafilah): The older of Jordan’s two main Crusader castles, built in 1115 by Baldwin I of Jerusalem — a generation before Karak. Rawer, less restored, and significantly quieter, Shobak offers perhaps the most atmospheric medieval ruins in Jordan. See the Shobak guide. Just 25 km from Wadi Musa, it is an easy morning add-on for anyone staying in Petra.

Petra/Wadi Musa (~280 km total from Madaba): The road drops into Wadi Musa, the gateway town to Petra, via a series of hairpins offering glimpses of the rose-red mountains ahead. See the Petra guide.

Practical driving guide

Total distance and time: Madaba to Petra is approximately 280 km on the King’s Highway. Without stops, this takes about 3.5 hours of driving. With the recommended stops (Mount Nebo, Wadi Mujib viewpoint, Karak, Shobak), budget 6–8 hours total — making this a full-day drive.

Road condition: The highway is paved and generally in good condition, though some sections between Karak and Shobak are narrow with steep curves. Traffic is light outside Karak and Madaba. Petrol stations are present in Madaba, Karak, and Tafilah.

Self-drive: This is the best way to do the King’s Highway. A rental car from Amman (~25–40 JOD per day for a small car) gives you total flexibility to stop, photograph, and linger. An international driving permit is technically required; in practice, your home licence is rarely checked.

With a private driver: A good alternative if you prefer not to drive. Private drivers for a King’s Highway day can be arranged through most Amman hotels or online platforms; expect 80–120 JOD for a full-day private vehicle.

By organised tour from Amman: Several operators run King’s Highway day trips covering Madaba, Mount Nebo, Karak, and sometimes Shobak.

From Amman: Karak and Shobak Crusader Castles day tour

Two-day King’s Highway option

For travellers with more time, a two-day approach is significantly more relaxed:

Day 1: Amman → Madaba (Church of Saint George, mosaic workshops) → Mount Nebo → lunch in Madaba → Wadi Mujib viewpoint → Karak (afternoon and evening, overnight in Karak town)

Day 2: Karak → Tafilah → Dana Biosphere Reserve (viewpoint or short walk) → Shobak → Wadi Musa/Petra (overnight, Petra next morning)

Dana Biosphere Reserve sits between Tafilah and Shobak and can be experienced even with a 2-hour stop at the Dana Village viewpoint or a short trail walk. Adding Dana overnight turns this into a 3-day southern Jordan itinerary that is arguably the richest version of the King’s Highway drive.

King’s Highway vs. Dead Sea Highway

A third route option is the Dead Sea Highway, which runs along the Jordan Valley east of the Dead Sea. The Dead Sea Highway is faster than the King’s Highway (though slower than the Desert Highway), offers Dead Sea access, and is good for combining the Dead Sea with Wadi Mujib hiking. It does not serve the King’s Highway castle stops. Some itineraries use the Dead Sea Highway southward and the King’s Highway northward on the return.

See the Desert Highway guide for the fast option, and the Dead Sea Highway guide for the valley route.

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FAQ

Is the King’s Highway suitable for first-time drivers in Jordan?

Yes, with some caveats. The road is straightforward on the highland sections, and traffic is light between the towns. The descent and ascent of the Wadi Mujib gorge has steep curves — drive cautiously and use the viewpoint lay-bys safely. Karak town centre has narrow lanes that can be confusing; park at the castle car park below the walls rather than driving into the old town. Driving habits in Jordan involve more horn use and less lane discipline than European standards — just stay attentive and leave extra stopping distance.

Can I do the King’s Highway by public transport?

With difficulty. Minibuses and service taxis connect Amman to Madaba, Madaba to Karak, and Karak to Petra, but connections are irregular and can leave you stranded at roadside junctions. The King’s Highway is genuinely best done by private car or an organised tour. Budget travellers who must use public transport should allow a full day just to get from Madaba to Karak, spending a night there before continuing.

Do I need to buy a Jordan Pass to visit the King’s Highway sites?

The Jordan Pass covers entry to Karak Castle and over 40 other sites (not Shobak, which charges a separate ~2 JOD fee). If your trip includes Petra, the Jordan Pass pays for itself easily since it covers Petra entry (17–21 JOD/day). Mount Nebo and the Madaba church have separate admission fees (around 3 JOD each). The Jordan Pass does not cover these smaller sites.

Where should I stay if splitting the King’s Highway into two days?

Karak has a handful of basic hotels and guesthouses in and around the castle area — functional and inexpensive (20–40 JOD per night). Some visitors prefer to push south to Tafilah or reach the Dana ecolodge area (~100 JOD/night at the Rummana Campsite, RSCN-run). Wadi Musa has the widest accommodation range for a night before Petra. The Kings Highway Hotel in Karak is a reliable mid-range option.

Is the Wadi Mujib canyon accessible from the King’s Highway?

The viewpoint from the highway is dramatic but the canyon floor (and the Siq Trail) is accessed from the eastern side near the Dead Sea — about 25 km from the main highway via a separate road. If you want to hike the Wadi Mujib Siq Trail, plan a separate day from the Dead Sea area. The Siq Trail is open May to October only (closed November–April). See the Wadi Mujib guide for details.